Afloat on the road to Mandalay: Sailing back through time on a cruise to …

By
Julie Peasgood

PUBLISHED:

05:51 EST, 29 September 2013

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UPDATED:

05:51 EST, 29 September 2013

We are moored on the Irrawaddy, just minutes from the revered Strand Hotel in Yangon (it used to be called Rangoon).

Larger vessels have to berth 90 minutes downriver, but thanks to the dimensions of MV Aegean Odyssey we’re in the midst of the city’s treasures.

Shwedagon Pagoda

Old traditions, new future: Monks stroll through the magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon

From my cabin balcony I gaze at brightly coloured barges criss-crossing this waterway, their passengers shielding themselves from 80F rays with umbrellas.

The Irrawaddy (now known as the Ayeyarwaddy) is actually the famous ‘Road to Mandalay’ that Kipling wrote about in 1892, and in Burma the pace is slow and relaxed – its magic has much to do with how old-fashioned and unspoilt it has remained.

Unfortunately, this also applies to many of the hotels; with a few notable exceptions such as The Strand, most don’t yet conform to Western standards, so cruising seems a good way to visit.

My voyage began in Singapore, with two nights in a top hotel sampling the city’s gastronomic offerings. Kuala Lumpur was next, but rain stopped most play. The sun rallied in Phuket in Thailand, and for a trip to Phi Phi Island.

My Voyages to Antiquity cruise returned to Malaysia, visiting the World Heritage Sites of Penang and Malacca, before reaching Yangon. The new name means ‘end of strife’ and, thanks to Aung San Suu Kyi, democracy looks set to return to Burma.

Burma

Putting her feet up: Julie finds a little wheeled assistance on her tour of the city

The splendour and profusion of sacred sites here is awe-inspiring. There are stupas, buddhas and temples galore. But on every tourist’s must-see list is the Shwedagon Pagoda – 2,500 years old, magnificently gilded from top to bottom and sporting more than 4,500 diamonds.

We went at sunset and the atmosphere was intoxicating. Monks and nuns, families and friends congregate here to pray, eat and celebrate.

I’d love to return to Scott’s Market – the vast emporium is filled with teak wood carvings, traditional handicrafts, lacquerware, silk and jewellery.

I’d take more dollars next time as none of the stalls (or shops) takes credit cards.

It’s no surprise that Voyages to Antiquity won Best Specialist Cruise Line Award 2012. The focus on board is all about expanding your mind, not just your waistline, so lectures are excellent.

Gratuities, wine at dinner and most excursions are included in the price, but best of all is the service – first-rate and genuinely friendly on this trip of a lifetime.